Accession Number : AD0213613

Title :   ON THE BREAKING OF WATER WAVES OF FINITE AMPLITUDE ON A SLOPING BEACH,

Corporate Author : HARVARD UNIV CAMBRIDGE MA DIV OF ENGINEERING AND APPLIED PHYSICS

Personal Author(s) : Greenspan, H. P.

Report Date : 06 JAN 1958

Pagination or Media Count : 5

Abstract : In recent paper Carrier + Greenspan showed that, within the framework of the non-linear shallow-water theory, there exist waves which do not break as they climb a sloping beach. The formation of a shock or bore is dependent on a variety of factors (wave shape, particle velocity) and, as yet, no general criteria for breaking have been found. Waves are considered which propagate shoreward into quiescent water; it is shown that any compressive wave (a wave of positive amplitude) which has a non-zero slope at the wave-front eventually breaks before reaching the coastline. In fact, an explicit relation is obtained between the initial conditions and the position where breaking occurs. (Author)

Descriptors :   BEACHES, MATHEMATICAL ANALYSIS.

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE