Accession Number : AD0478688
Title : WATER WAVES AT THE SHORELINE.
Descriptive Note : Technical rept.,
Corporate Author : WISCONSIN UNIV-MADISON DEPT OF MATHEMATICS
Personal Author(s) : Taylor, Albion D.
Report Date : 15 JUL 1965
Pagination or Media Count : 54
Abstract : The nonlinear equations of two-dimensional wave motion on a shallow beach are used to study motions starting from rest and developing so that the surface elevation, at a fixed distance from the initial shore position, approaches rapidly an approximately simple-harmonic function of time. The Laplace transform is applied to a related problem and is inverted to obtain the solution of the physical problem when the water motion is bore-free. It is shown, moreover, that the solution does represent a bore-free motion for sufficiently small, non-zero amplitude, except at a set of resonant frequencies. (Author)
Descriptors : *BEACHES), (*WATER WAVES, MATHEMATICAL ANALYSIS, OCEANOGRAPHIC DATA, MOTION, NONLINEAR DIFFERENTIAL EQUATIONS, PARTIAL DIFFERENTIAL EQUATIONS, THEORY, FLUID MECHANICS, COASTAL REGIONS, OCEAN WAVES.
Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE