Accession Number : AD0632849

Title :   WAVE SHOALING,

Corporate Author : NATIONAL ENGINEERING SCIENCE CO PASADENA CALIF

Personal Author(s) : Koh,R. C. Y. ; LeMehaute,B. J.

Report Date : 15 JAN 1966

Pagination or Media Count : 70

Abstract : This study is a contribution to a larger project for studying the 'Modification of Wave Spectra on the Continental Shelf and in the Surf Zone.' Prior to dealing with a wave spectrum, a study of nonlinear effects on periodic waves appears to be necessary. For this purpose it is assumed that both friction effects and reflection effects are small. Then the principle of conservation of energy flux is applied to a periodic wave. This calculation has already been applied to a Stokes wave (periodic irrotational) to a third order of approximation (Le Mehaute and Webb, 1964). The purpose of this report is to perform the calculation up to the fifth order and to compare the corresponding result, with the third and first order of approximation. It will be the purpose of another (pending) report to present the limits of the principle of conservation of energy flux and to present a method of calculation which takes also into account bottom friction and reflection effect as well as nonlinear effects consistently. (Author)

Descriptors :   (*OCEAN WAVES, COASTAL REGIONS), (*HYDRODYNAMICS, OCEAN WAVES), WATER WAVES, TIDEWATER, BEACHES, FLUID MECHANICS

Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
      Fluid Mechanics

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE