Accession Number : AD0632851

Title :   ON THE BREAKING OF WAVES ARRIVING AT AN ANGLE TO THE SHORE.

Descriptive Note : Final rept.,

Corporate Author : NATIONAL ENGINEERING SCIENCE CO PASADENA CALIF

Personal Author(s) : LeMehaute,B. J. ; Koh,R. C. Y.

Report Date : 15 FEB 1966

Pagination or Media Count : 86

Abstract : By using the method of conservation of energy flux between wave orthogonals, the breaking wave characteristics are obtained for waves traveling obliquely to the bottom contours of a straight shoreline. The results of the calculations are presented in the form of nomographs by using the linear and third order irrotational gravity wave theories. Three different breaking criteria are used in these calculations. In particular, a new breaking criterion is proposed for waves breaking on a gentle slope. Some calculations are also performed at the fifth order of approximation and the results compared with the linear and third order cases. (Author)

Descriptors :   (*WATER WAVES, BEACHES), (*HYDRODYNAMICS, WATER WAVES), LAKE WAVES, OCEAN WAVES, OCEAN CURRENTS, COASTAL REGIONS, FLUID MECHANICS

Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
      Fluid Mechanics

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE