Accession Number : AD0676813

Title :   DETERMINATION OF APPROXIMATE DIRECTIONAL SPECTRA FOR SURFACE WAVES,

Corporate Author : CALIFORNIA UNIV BERKELEY HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING LAB

Personal Author(s) : Suzuki,Yoshimi

Report Date : AUG 1968

Pagination or Media Count : 51

Abstract : The knowledge of the two-dimensional spectra of surface waves is essential to the problem of the wave generating mechanism by winds, and to the related problem of wave forecasting. It is important to the understanding of coastal phenomena, and consequently to the design of coastal works. The author studied a method of determining the two-dimensional spectra of sea surface waves using the records of a pressure type wave recorder and the record of a special wave force meter which can record X and Y component wave force acting on a sphere in the sea. One set of data was analyzed by the method described, to obtain the approximate two-dimensional spectral density. In addition, the value of C sub D and C sub M in the conventional wave force formula for the sphere were obtained as a function of component wave frequency. (Author)

Descriptors :   (*OCEAN WAVES, HYDRODYNAMICS), SURFACE PROPERTIES, TWO DIMENSIONAL FLOW, MATHEMATICAL ANALYSIS, APPROXIMATION(MATHEMATICS), WIND, FORCE(MECHANICS), SPHERES

Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE