Accession Number : AD0696140

Title :   PROBABILITIES OF WAVE CHARACTERISTICS IN THE SURF ZONE.

Descriptive Note : Final rept.,

Corporate Author : TETRA TECH INC PASADENA CALIF

Personal Author(s) : Collins,J. Ian ; Wier,Wayne

Report Date : SEP 1969

Pagination or Media Count : 124

Abstract : Utilizing the hydrodynamic relationships for shoaling and refraction of waves approaching a shoreline over parallel bottom contours, a number of probability distributions for breaking wave characteristics are derived in terms of assumed deep water probability densities of wave heights, wave lengths and angles of approach. Some probability densities for wave heights at specific locations in the surf zone are computed for a Rayleigh distribution in deep water. The probability computations are used to derive the expectation of energy flux at various locations in the surf zone. A further application to determine longshore current expectation is proposed. (Author)

Descriptors :   (*COASTAL REGIONS, WATER WAVES), (*WATER WAVES, SHALLOW WATER), HYDRODYNAMICS, FRICTION, OCEAN BOTTOM, STATISTICAL ANALYSIS, APPROXIMATION(MATHEMATICS), DENSITY, OCEAN WAVES, MATHEMATICAL MODELS

Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE