Accession Number : AD0700301

Title :   DISPERSIVE LONG WAVES OF FINITE AMPLITUDE OVER AN UNEVEN BOTTOM.

Descriptive Note : Final rept.,

Corporate Author : MASSACHUSETTS INST OF TECH CAMBRIDGE HYDRODYNAMICS LAB

Personal Author(s) : Madsen,Ole Secher ; Mei,Chiang C.

Report Date : NOV 1969

Pagination or Media Count : 109

Abstract : Approximate equations for long waves are derived under assumptions similar to those of Boussinesg and Korteweg and deVries. Numerical studies are performed using the method of characteristics. Four cases are investigated (1) solitary wave on a beach, (2) solitary wave on a shelf, (3) periodic waves generated in a wave tank of constant depth, (4) periodic wave on a shelf. It is discovered that complicated disintegration and evolution appear due to combined effects of nonlinearity and dispersion. Experimental evidence is presented. (Author)

Descriptors :   (*WATER WAVES, HYDRODYNAMICS), (*STRUCTURES, WATER WAVES), DESIGN, NUMERICAL ANALYSIS, NONLINEAR SYSTEMS, BEACHES, EQUATIONS OF MOTION, THESES

Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
      Fluid Mechanics

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE