Accession Number : AD0718904

Title :   Transformations of Breaking Wave Characteristics Over a Submarine Bar.

Descriptive Note : Technical rept.,

Corporate Author : MICHIGAN STATE UNIV EAST LANSING DEPT OF GEOLOGY

Personal Author(s) : Wood,William L. , Jr

Report Date : DEC 1970

Pagination or Media Count : 127

Abstract : The effect of a submarine bar on the transformation of breaking wave characteristics is to create a filter on wave celerity and length. The degree of filtering is directly related to the intensity of wave breaking. The filtering effect of the submarine bar suggests that this is the reason for better agreement between observed wave parameters and theory in the reforming zone shoreward of the submarine bar. The role of turbulence of flow induced by breaking is the most important factor in wave height attenuation shoreward of the submarine bar. As a result theoretical expressions for shallow water wave transformations in the nearshore zone must take turbulent dissipation into consideration as a major factor. (Author)

Descriptors :   (*LAKE WAVES, BEACHES), (*OCEAN WAVES, MEASUREMENT), (*BEACHES, EROSION), WAVE FUNCTIONS, TRANSFORMATIONS(MATHEMATICS), OCEAN BOTTOM, GREAT LAKES

Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
      Hydrology, Limnology and Potamology

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE