Accession Number : AD0726012

Title :   Notes on Tidal Inlets on Sandy Shores,

Corporate Author : CALIFORNIA UNIV BERKELEY HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING LAB

Personal Author(s) : O'Brien,M. P.

Report Date : MAY 1971

Pagination or Media Count : 56

Abstract : Sandy shorelines approach an average equilibrium configuration, in planform and profile, under the influence of the wave climate, the tides and tidal currents, and the local winds acting on the material which forms the shore. The tides and tidal currents vary in a predictable sequence but waves and local winds occur randomly and shorelines exhibit correspondingly random deviations from an average configuration. The most active position of most shorelines is found in and near inlets where strong currents move the material stirred up by wave action. Past studies of the equilibrium configuration of shorelines have suffered from the lack of quantitative data on the wave climate, the average long-term wave exposure, and data on the daily, seasonal, and annual variations in wave intensity and direction. The long-range objective should be to relate the configurations of shorelines and the temporal variations in configuration, to the waves, winds, tides and currents. A shorter range objective is to explain quantitatively the behavior of inlets and adjacent shores. (Author)

Descriptors :   (*OCEAN WAVES, BEACHES), (*TIDES, INLAND WATERWAYS), WIND, SAND, MARINE METEOROLOGY, WEATHER FORECASTING, FLOWMETERS, MARINE TRANSPORTATION, FRICTION, OCEAN CURRENTS, EXPOSURE(PHYSIOLOGY), VELOCITY, HYDRAULIC MODELS

Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
      Hydrology, Limnology and Potamology

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE