Accession Number : AD0744005
Title : Mass Transport in Water Waves. Part I. Theory. Part II. Experiments.
Descriptive Note : Final rept.,
Corporate Author : MASSACHUSETTS INST OF TECH CAMBRIDGE RALPH M PARSONS LAB FOR WATER RESOURCES AND HYDRODYNAMICS
Personal Author(s) : Mei,Chiang C. ; Liu,Philip L-F.
Report Date : APR 1972
Pagination or Media Count : 290
Abstract : When a fluid is in periodic wave motion, the particles are carried by a varying velocity field. The location of a particle varies as does the immediate velocity field. Fluid particles may have a net mean drift even if the local velocity field has zero mean; this is the case in irrotational gravity waves. In viscous fluid, wave-induced Reynolds stress imparts steady momentum to the fluid; a steady shear is the set up to balance it, hence a further mean velocity field results. The sum of these two steady currents provides the total drift by which a fluid particle migrates, i.e. mass transport velocity. This report is a description of theoretical and experimental aspects of mass transport by waves. Part I reviews basic assumptions of existing theories. Part II checks and evaluates theoretical deductions in Part I. (Author)
Descriptors : (*OCEAN WAVES, HYDRODYNAMICS), (*SEDIMENTATION, TRANSPORT PROPERTIES), EROSION, MATHEMATICAL ANALYSIS, BOUNDARY LAYER, BEACHES, REFLECTION, FLUID FLOW, OCEAN CURRENTS, COASTAL REGIONS, ENGINEERING
Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE