Accession Number : AD0756577

Title :   Wave-Induced Water Particle Motion Measurements.

Descriptive Note : Master's thesis,

Corporate Author : ARMY ENGINEER WATERWAYS EXPERIMENT STATION VICKSBURG MISS

Personal Author(s) : Krapohl,Richard Francis

Report Date : DEC 1972

Pagination or Media Count : 64

Abstract : Simultaneous measurements of wave height and two orthogonal water particle velocities were made at six elevations in nineteen meters of water using a penetrating wave staff and an electromagnetic flowmeter. Moderate swell and low wind conditions prevailed during the experiment. The measured wave-induced velocities were two to four percent greater than those predicted using linear wave theory. Coherence of the wave height and wave-induced velocities in the significant energy-density range was computed to be over 0.85, indicating that the motion was almost totally wave induced. At higher frequencies it was apparent that the motion was primarily turbulence. Phase spectra computed for the measured wave heights and orbital velocities compared very well with linear theory. (Author)

Descriptors :   (*OCEAN WAVES, PARTICLE TRAJECTORIES), WIND, SPECTRUM ANALYZERS, TIME SERIES ANALYSIS, CORRELATION TECHNIQUES, STATISTICAL TESTS, HEIGHT FINDING, FLOWMETERS, THESES

Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE