Accession Number : AD0769423

Title :   The Kinematics of Water Particle Velocities of Breaking Waves Within the Surf Zone.

Descriptive Note : Master's thesis,


Personal Author(s) : Richardson,David Paul

Report Date : SEP 1973

Pagination or Media Count : 59

Abstract : Simultaneous measurements of waves, and vertical and horizontal water particle velocities were made at the breaker-line within the surf zone using a capacitance type penetrating wave staff, a pressure wave gauge, and an electromagnetic current meter. Wave measurements were also made at seaward and shoreward locations. The wave energy-density spectral components were converted to velocity spectral components using linear wave theory. These computed values compared well qualitatively with the measured velocity spectra. Quantitatively, the results showed that linear theory underpredicted wave-induced horizontal velocity spectral components by about 50 percent at the frequency of peak energy. The coherence values between waves and horizontal velocity were high, ranging above 0.75. (Modified author abstract)

Descriptors :   (*Ocean waves, Beaches), Particles, Kinematics, Velocity, Ocean surface, Spectrum analysis, Energy, Motion, Probability density functions, Linearity, Statistical analysis, Theses, California

Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE