Accession Number : AD0806719

Title :   PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY.

Descriptive Note : Final rept. Sep 65-Jun 66,

Corporate Author : WISCONSIN UNIV-MADISON

Personal Author(s) : Meyer, Richard E.

Report Date : DEC 1966

Pagination or Media Count : 20

Abstract : A connected account of the theoretical research on tsunamis and related oceanographical problems is given. The main part of the work concerned waves rather close to shore on gentle beaches and continental slopes. It has led to the discovery of the mechanism which converts waves and breakers into run-up and back-wash on the foreshore, and to a non-resonance theorem relevant to the problem of tsunami amplification. The results should also be of value to marine geology and coastal engineering. An investigation of shoaling waves has led to a partial understanding of the structure of weak (undular) bores. Results have been obtained on internal long-waves in stratified fluids which are relevant also to meteorology.

Descriptors :   (*OCEAN WAVES, FLUID DYNAMICS), (*OCEANOGRAPHIC DATA, OCEAN WAVES), BEACHES, SHALLOW WATER, OCEAN BOTTOM TOPOGRAPHY, CONTINENTAL SHELVES, MARINE GEOLOGY, MARINE METEOROLOGY, THEORY, PROBLEM SOLVING, PROPAGATION, WATER WAVES.

Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
      Fluid Mechanics

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE