Accession Number : ADA305173
Title : A Simple Quasi-Three Dimensional Model of Longshore Currents over Arbitrary Profile.
Descriptive Note : Master's thesis,
Corporate Author : NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
Personal Author(s) : Faria, Antonio F.
PDF Url : ADA305173
Report Date : SEP 1995
Pagination or Media Count : 48
Abstract : The long shore current maximum observed in the trough of a barred beach during the nearshore dynamics experiment DELILAH at Duck, North Carolina, is not predicted by present theory. The simplest longshore curren models balance cross-shore changes in the alongshore wave momentum (radiation stress) with the alongshore bottom shear stress. Waves break over the bar, reform in the trough and again break on the foreshore resulting in changes in the radiation stress, which predicts two jets, one over the bar and the other at the foreshore, which does not agree with the observed current maximum in the trough. The advection of the momentum of the longshore current by mean cross-shore currents as a source of momentum mixing is investigated. The longshore current is strongest toward the surface and decreasing to zero at the bottom. The cross-shore mean current has an onshore transport in the wave crest/trough region and an offshore transport beneath (undertow). The net interaction can induce significant lateral mixing of the alongshore momentum of the mean currents, which is shown using a simplified three- dimension model of nearshore currents to explain much of the differences with observations. (MM)
Descriptors : *OCEAN CURRENTS, VELOCITY, WATER FLOW, OCEAN WAVES, INSHORE AREAS, THESES, TURBULENT FLOW, MASS FLOW, SHEAR STRESSES, OCEAN MODELS, ADVECTION, BEACHES, OCEAN BOTTOM, BOUNDARY LAYER FLOW, OFFSHORE, TROUGHS.
Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE