Accession Number : ADA311719

Title :   Infragravity Waves on the Continental Shelf.

Descriptive Note : Master's thesis,

Corporate Author : NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA

Personal Author(s) : Evangelidis, Dimitrios A.

PDF Url : ADA311719

Report Date : JUN 1996

Pagination or Media Count : 53

Abstract : The variability of infragravity frequency (0.004-0.04 Hz) motions on a wide continental shelf was examined with data from a 100km long transect of bottom pressure recorders extending from the beach (6m depth) to the shelf break (87m depth) near Duck, North Carolina. The observed infragravity motions are a mixture of forced waves, phase coupled to local wave groups, and (uncoupled) free waves. Although the contribution of forced waves to the infragravity energy increases with both increasing swell energy and decreasing water depth, the shelf is usually dominated by free waves. The observed free waves are predominantly radiated from nearby beaches. The strong attenuation of infragravity waves observed across the inner shelf is primarily the result of refractive trapping and is well described by a WKB model. Across the flatter, irregular outer shelf the observed attenuation is weaker but increases with increasing swell energy, suggesting that significant damping occurs on the shelf during storms, consistent with earlier studies. At the deepest instrumented sites, weaker correlations between infragravity and swell energy levels, and weaker depth dependence of infragravity energy levels are observed, suggesting that remotely generated waves are important seaward of the shelf break.

Descriptors :   *OCEAN WAVES, *GRAVITY WAVES, DAMPING, THESES, CONTINENTAL SHELVES, INTERNAL, ATTENUATION, RECORDING SYSTEMS, NORTH CAROLINA, OCEAN BOTTOM TOPOGRAPHY, BEACHES, INTERNAL WAVES.

Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE