Accession Number : ADA314432

Title :   Non-Gaussian Properties of Waves in Finite Water Depth.

Descriptive Note : Master's thesis,

Corporate Author : FLORIDA UNIV GAINESVILLE

Personal Author(s) : Robillard, David J.

PDF Url : ADA314432

Report Date : 1996

Pagination or Media Count : 79

Abstract : As waves propagate into shallower waters, their profile changes from a Gaussian distribution to an increasingly non-Gaussian profile. The non-Gaussian properties of waves in finite water depths are analyzed through the use of a probability density function defined in closed form and that can be solved by the application of wave displacement data. Initially, the applicability of the probability density function is verified using wave data records obtained from the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) at Duck, North Carolina. A broad range of sea conditions and water depths are represented to ensure the probability density function correlates well with actual histogram data over varied conditions. With the applicability verified, the probability density function is used to define criteria for the boundary where the wave field can no longer be considered Gaussian. The ability to determine when a shoaling wave profile can no longer be considered Gaussian is of paramount importance in order to ensure proper wave theories are being applied. This boundary between Gaussian and non-Gaussian wave profiles will be determined in terms of significant wave height and water depth.

Descriptors :   *WATER WAVES, DISPLACEMENT, THEORY, THESES, PROBABILITY DENSITY FUNCTIONS, PROFILES, SEA STATES, HISTOGRAMS, NORMAL DISTRIBUTION, SHALLOW DEPTH.

Subject Categories : Fluid Mechanics
      Physical and Dynamic Oceanography

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE