Accession Number : ADA319251

Title :   Bottom Pressure Fluctuations on the Shelf Induced by Surface Waves.

Descriptive Note : Final technical rept. 1 Oct 92-30 Sep 96,

Corporate Author : SCRIPPS INSTITUTION OF OCEANOGRAPHY LA JOLLA CA CENTER FOR COASTAL STUDIES

Personal Author(s) : Guza, Robert T. ; Herbers, Thomas H.

PDF Url : ADA319251

Report Date : 18 DEC 1996

Pagination or Media Count : 3

Abstract : This ONR grant, entitled 'Bottom Pressure Fluctuations on the Shelf Induced by Surface Waves', resulted in successful research concerning the dynamics of surface gravity waves on the broad continental shelf offshore of North Carolina. A transect of pressure sensors were deployed on the sea floor from the shoreline to the shelf break and data was acquired nearly continuously for 4 months during Fall 1994. The data includes energetic waves generated by Hurricane Gordon. These and previously acquired observations have been used to study nonlinearly forced waves at both double-wind wave frequencies and at low infragravity frequencies. The energy levels and wavenumbers of motions in both frequency bands are accurately predicted by weakly nonlinear theory. While the double-frequency pressure field is shown to be consistently dominated by forced wave motions, the observed infragravity waves are a mixture of locally excited forced waves and usually more energetic free waves. Ongoing research concerns the evolution of sea and swell propagating across the shelf.

Descriptors :   *SURFACE WAVES, *PRESSURE, *OCEAN BOTTOM, DETECTORS, DYNAMICS, THEORY, MOTION, CONTINENTAL SHELVES, FREQUENCY BANDS, NONLINEAR SYSTEMS, ENERGETIC PROPERTIES, ENERGY LEVELS, NORTH CAROLINA, BOTTOM, WAVES, SHORES, OFFSHORE, GRAVITY WAVES, VARIABLE PRESSURE.

Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
      Fluid Mechanics

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE