Accession Number : ADA331932

Title :   Set-Up Under a Natural Wave

Descriptive Note : Master's thesis

Corporate Author : NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA

Personal Author(s) : Morris, Bruce J.

PDF Url : ADA331932

Report Date : MAR 1997

Pagination or Media Count : 51

Abstract : Field measurements from a cross shore array of two pressure sensors to measure waves and eight manometer tubes to measure mean water elevation are used to examine set-down/up across the surf zone. The manometer tubes are connected to differential pressure transducers onshore allowing continuous set-down/up measurements. Flume measurements of set-down/up are also examined. Measured values are compared with numeric set-up values incorporating roller theory describing wave breaking. The model has two free parameters, B representing the vertical fraction of the wave covered by the roller and psi a scaling parameter for wave steepness. Optimal values of both are chosen by model fitting. Inclusion of the surface roller improves the set-up model fit to both beach and flume measurements.

Descriptors :   *PRESSURE TRANSDUCERS, *BREAKWATERS, *SURF, PRESSURE GRADIENTS, THESES, OCEANOGRAPHIC DATA, SCALING FACTOR, ROLLERS, OCEAN MODELS, BEACHES, HYDROSTATIC PRESSURE, MANOMETERS.

Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE