
Accession Number : ADA332274
Title : Random Wave Transformation and Sediment Transport Across Barred and Terraced Sand Beaches.
Descriptive Note : Technical rept.,
Corporate Author : DELAWARE UNIV NEWARK CENTER FOR APPLIED COASTAL RESEARCH
Personal Author(s) : Orzech, Mark D. ; Kobayashi, Nobuhisa
PDF Url : ADA332274
Report Date : AUG 1997
Pagination or Media Count : 179
Abstract : Two irregular wave tests were conducted over a permeable fine sand beach in equilibrium, recording time series of the free surface and horizontal velocity at 17 crossshore locations. The first part of this study supplements the results of Herrman et al. (1997), obtained using a 1:16 impermeable smooth slope. The exponential gamma distribution, with measured mean, standard deviation, and skewness, is shown to be capable of describing the probability distributions of the above data in a unified manner over the beach profiles, in mean water depth h > 1 cm. In the swash zone, the skewness, s, approaches 2 and the rootmeansquare wave height Hrms approaches squareroot h. Crossshore variations of the mean and standard deviation of middepth horizontal velocity are adequately predicted in the shoaling and surf zones using linear longwave theory locally. In addition to crossshore data, two velocity profiles were measured and horizontal velocity statistics were shown to be fairly constant over depth. An attempt is also made to synchronize free surface and velocity time series to obtain information about incident and reflected wave spectra in shallow water. Total wave spectra are examined to check for the existence of long period standing waves over the profiles. Finally, sheet flow and energeticsbased sediment transport models are used with the measured horizontal velocities to try to predict the equilibrium profiles obtained in this experiment. The energetics model is shown to predict these profiles more accurately than the sheet flow model. In the milder wave conditions of the second test, the energetics model predicts equilibrium II
Descriptors : *OCEAN WAVES, *SEDIMENT TRANSPORT, VELOCITY, PROBABILITY DISTRIBUTION FUNCTIONS, STATISTICS, SAND, DEPTH, SHALLOW WATER, PROFILES, ENERGETIC PROPERTIES, STANDARD DEVIATION, BEACHES, DISTRIBUTION FUNCTIONS, TRANSFORMATIONS, SURF, STANDING WAVES.
Subject Categories : Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
Fluid Mechanics
Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE